Replacing the Roof-lining

Before


After

DIY Lining replacement

As can be seen from the photos above the roof lining was rotten and badly needed replacing.
A lot of the sagging that can be seen in the top left hand photo has been caused by the sound-damping
(that is usually glued to the roof), having fallen on top of the fabric. This can be seen better in the
photos below.



To fit the new lining the frame that the lining attaches to will have to be removed. This frame is split into
two sections and can be removed by sliding the whole front section backwards. The two sections are held together
by three clips one of which is highlighted in the right hand photo. Some 'force' maybe required to pop the frame out
this can easily be straightened out once removed. The rear section should be able to slide upwards once the front
section has been removed.
The above image also shows that the frame that holds the fabric up is rusted. To stop this 'bleeding' through to the
new fabric this will need to be painted with a rust inhibitor.
I have discarded the original roof soundproofing was it was rotted through can could not have been re-glue to the roof.

Fabricating new roof-lining

For new roof-lining I am using a heavy weight curtain lining material and 2cm thick wadding to give a plush feel

The first step to creating the new roof-lining consisted of draping the new lining over the metal frame and then
trimming to a size slightly larger than the frame. As can be seen from the right hand photo above I have got
three layers of material:-

These three layers were laid over the metal frame and pinned along the contours of the retaining bars.
As the photo above is for the rear lining section, the lines are curved to follow the contours of the frame and not
the results of a drunken sowing machine incident!
Once the three layers have been pinned together it can all be sown together using a sowing machine.
Before attaching the fabric to the frame the fabric should be ironed. Caution should be taken when ironing, don't have the
iron to hot as you don't want to damage the wadding.
The fabric can now be pulled taught over the frame and hand sown in place. I used double sided sticky carpet tape to
hold the fabric to the edges of the frame.


Rear section with new fabric and a zoom showing the fabric pulled over the frame and sewn.
Note that the hole for the rear window will be cut out when the frame and fabric is in-situ.

Click here for an image of the complete frame with new fabric ready for refitting into the car.

Soundproofing before re-fitting the frame and fabric.

As the old soundproofing was rotten it was discarded, this will have to be replaced before refitting the frame and fabric
I have used a 2.5mm thick, high density synthetic soundproofing membrane from Custom Audio Designs
I have used part SY50, a self-adhesive material weighing 5KG/m2. This is the same material that I am using to soundproof the
floor and front bulkhead of the car. The primary function is to remove any vibrations in the roof. This will not require a solid
mat of soundproofing and small strips will be sufficient.


Strips of soundproofing applied to the roof.
(Note: the white marks are the glue that previously held up the original OEM soundproofing material

In a very non-scientific demonstration of the effectiveness of the sound-proofing I have recorded two sound files of a small
10mm washer being dropped onto the roof from a height of 20cm
This sound is before the sound proofing.
This sound is after the sound proofing.

The waveform below show's the effectiveness of the soundproofing a bit better.
The white waveform has a higher amplitude and lasts for 1 second. The inset blue waveform has <%50 amplitude when compared with
the original and lasts for only 0.37 seconds.











       
         
         
        Created by Trevor Cook 2010